Choosing
Your Wedding Tartan
The most common question about tartan is "Do I have to
be Scottish to wear tartan?". And the answer to that is
a simple No.
If you are a Scot, or have Scottish ancestry you have
the right to wear a tartan associated with your surname,
but anyone may wear any tartan they choose, with the
following exceptions:
- personal tartans
- tartans restricted by copyright
or trademark
- tartans reserved for the Royal
Family
Tartan is about showing that you belong to a group.
Other than being born into the group (clan) there are
many ways to come into a group. Marriage, of course.
That's how I acquired my "right" to wear the McDonald
tartan, coming, as I do, from a clanless sept, my
ancestry being based in Scandinavian Scotland. But there
are many other perfectly acceptable justifications for
why you would want to wear a particular tartan,
including, close friendships, business partnerships, and
geographical connections.
While clan tartans are generally worn by families
associated with that clan but there isn't a one-to-one
correspondence between name and tartan. Most clans
have more than one tartan design, and each tartan can
have multiple variations, the most common of which are
Ancient,
Modern, Weathered, Hunting, and Dress. You might
also come across
Muted. These terms that refer
to the same tartan produced in different hues, some of
which might replicate the softer, grayer, tones of the
older vegetable dyes.
An old Highland custom is to wear the host's clan tartan
as a mark of honour, so it is perfectly all right for
all the groomsmen to wear the groom's family tartan.
District tartans provide an alternative for those who
know the area from which their family came, but do not
know the clan affiliation, or whose ancestors came from
places that were not in the "tartan area". Where a name
cannot be traced to a particular area, or is a recent
import to Scotland there are a number of national or
universal tartans such a Caledonia, The Flower of
Scotland, and Pride of Scotland.
Purists suggest that you should select a tartan
associated with your own surname in preference to
choosing a tartan associated with a paternal ancestral
surname, and that both of those are preferable to
choosing a tartan associated with a surname acquired by
marriage or through a maternal ancestor.
Tradition has it that, if you have no tartan of your own
you can wear the Black Watch (The Universal or
Government Tartan) or the Hunting Stewart, among others.
The Royal Stewart* was originally adopted for the Royal
family by Queen Victoria, but became so popular that the
Royal family decided instead to adopt the Balmoral
tartan, designed by Prince Albert, as the official Royal
Tartan. It may only be worn by the Royal family and by
Her Majesty's personal piper. *The pedantically correct
Scottish spelling used by the Tartans Authority.
Stuart
is the French version of the name!
While
the Royal Stewart tartan continues to be the
personal tartan of the Monarch, and,
theoretically, this means that it cannot be worn
without the express permission of the Sovereign, due
to its popularity it has now been classified a
Universal tartan, meaning it can be worn by anyone
who does not have their own clan tartan.
If you want to wear a tartan with a royal connection,
there are also quite a few tartans named after royal
personages that have no restrictions on who might wear
them.
For your wedding, I will wear my McDonald tartan with an
understated outfit. Where there are sensitivities
relating to old clan enmities I wear a universal tartan,
so I always do a little probing as to what tartan you
and others close to you will be wearing.
Right or
Left - the shoulder counts for women!
More and more I'm seeing advice on websites that flies
in the face of long-established tradition. So here are
the facts:
Over your
right shoulder, ladies, UNLESS you are
- a Lady Chief
- the wife of a Clan Chief or Chieftain
- the wife of a colonel in the Highland Regiment
- part of a Scottish Country Dancing team (when
competing - a special dispensation for practical
reasons)
.
Fun Facts
about Tartan
- Tartan (the word) most likely comes from
French
Most likely it is derived from the French words tartarin
meaning Tartar cloth and tiretaine,
which stems from the verb tirer (to pull).
But it has also been suggested the term comes from
the modern Scottish Gaelic tarsainn, meaning
across, or from the Spanish tiritaña,
a type of silk cloth, or the Gaelic breacan,
meaning plaid or speckled.
- Tartan didn't originate in Scotland - it came
from Central Europe
Textile historian E. J. W. Barber tells us that
the Hallstatt culture of Central Europe, which is
linked with ancient Celtic populations, produced
tartan-like textiles between the 8th and 6th
centuries BC. Tartan, as we know it today, didn't
exist in Scotland until the 16th century and tartans
didn’t become associated with specific clans until
the 19th century. Before that people picked their
plaids based on the colours, just as they do now.
- Clan tartans as we know them stem from the
early 19th century - here's a BBC
clip on that topic
- Queen Victoria is partly to thank for tartan’s
popularity today
When she turned up to the Great Exhibition in 1851
with her young sons, Albert and Alfred, decked out
in full Highland attire, sales of tartan went
through the roof, and became a particularly popular
choice for school uniforms.
- Tartan Day is celebrated in Australia, on July
1
July 1 is the anniversary of the repeal of the
1746 Act of Proscription, which banned the wearing
of tartan in an attempt to control the Highland
clans that had supported the Jacobite Risings.
Australia and some other countries celebrate Tartan
Day in recognition of that
- In the US Tartan Day is celebrated on April 6
April 6 is the anniversary of the Declaration of
Arbroath - the a declaration of Scottish
independence, made in 1320. The Declaration, dated 6
April 1320, was a letter in Latin submitted to Pope
John XXII. It was intended to confirm Scotland's
status as an independent, sovereign state and
defending Scotland's right to use military action
when unjustly attacked. The most widely quoted
section reads
for, as long as but a hundred
of us remain alive, never will we on any
conditions be brought under English rule. It is in
truth not for glory, nor riches, nor honours that
we are fighting, but for freedom – for that alone,
which no honest man gives up but with life itself:
- The world’s first colour photograph was of a
tartan ribbon
During an 1861 Royal Institution lecture on colour
theory, James Clerk Maxwell presented the photo,
taken by Thomas Sutton, inventor of the single-lens
reflex camera.
- An astronaut took his tartan to the moon and
back
In 1969, Alan Bean, the fourth man to walk on
the moon, took a piece of MacBean tartan with him on
his journey .It is now in St Bean Chapel in Fowlis
Wester, Perthshire.
- Tartan is hugely popular in Japan
Tartan is a staple of Japanese street and runway
fashion. Designer Jun Takahashi once had models
strut down the runway painted from head to toe in
plaid and he country has had several tartans
dedicated to it - even Hello Kitty has her very own
tartan.
- Elvis Presley had three tartans to his name
Because he is said to have roots in Lonmay, a tiny
village in Aberdeenshire, in 2004 local
designer Mike King created an official Presley of
Lonmay tartan in his honour followed by a modern
version a few years later. The Scottish Tartan
Registry also lists the Presley of Memphis tartan by
Brian Wilton, which is based on the colours of the
US flag with a gold stripe to represent Elvis’
multiple Gold Discs. It even has a thread count of
42 – the age the King was when he died.
- There really are Tartan sheep
The owners of the East Links Family Park near Dunbar
and the Auchingarrich Wildlife Centre in Perthshire
have been known to paint their sheep tartan for
Tartan Day and other events.
"I’ve been telling all the kids that
come to the farm that I have connections with the
Clan McHaver," says Grant Bell, "and
that I’ve managed to get a few of these rare sheep
sent down from the Highlands. I tell them
the lambs are actually born a light shade of blue
and don’t become fully tartan until they are
around one year old. Their tartan wool is
prized by kilt-makers all over the world, and the
whereabouts of the Highland glens where the clan
McHaver – who have bred and tended the flocks of
tartan sheep for centuries – is a closely guarded
secret."
The sheep have become a tourist attraction in their
own right, with the Auchingarrich flock even featuring
in an episode of Come Dine With Me.
- Not all tartans are clan tartans
The Scottish Register of Tartans includes more than
7000 unique tartans. By no means all of them are
clan tartans. District, Company, and Personal
Tartans all appear in the register. Irn-Bru,
CocaCola, Edinburgh Zoo Panda, Harley Davidson, the
FBI, Harley Davidson, the Hard Rock Cafe, Lady Boys
of Bangkok (the dance troupe) all have their own
tartan, as do America, the European Union, Ellis
Island, New York City, New Jersey, New York City.
There are even Peter Rabbit, Peter Pan, The Scotsman
(the newspaper), Titanic, Hello Kitty, and Christmas
(the festival) tartans, and both a Jewish and a Sikh
tartan.
- The Australian National Tartan is red,
white, and blue, from our national flag. The
six white stripes represent the Southern Cross, the
green and the gold are for our formal national
colours, and the black stripes in the tartan
represent Australia's early beginning as a convict
settlement. And the Brisbane Tartan is blues and
yellow, the city colours.
The
ultimate unity ritual - your marriage tartan
Unity rituals generally focus on the couple, but
using tartans, a symbol of family and community,
highlights the fact that it is not just two people,
but two families, and perhaps two communities, who are
joined by the marriage.
A significant part of the traditional Scottish
wedding is the sashing of the bride. In this ritual
the groom's clan tartan is presented by members of his
family and put on the bride to signify that she is now
part of his clan.
Lovely - and patriarchal!
Another way of incorporating tartan in a symbolic way
is through a handfasting, using the clan tartan of
both bride and groom.
And now there is a third option, one that can be
highly symbolic and quite lovely.
With countless varieties of patterns, it is now
possible to design and name your very own tartan, so you could design a tartan that
symbolises your marriage, the joining of your two
families, to be used as your new family tartan and
passed down in the family you are creating. As
long as the tartan you design is unique, and it
complies with the standards laid down, it can be
placed on the Scottish Register. I'll be happy to talk
you through the process.
More information about
tartan
More information about
weddings in the Scots tradition